Sunday, December 23, 2012

What did you learn when you were 5?

More food today! We decided we should spend more than 30 min in Asia on this trip, so we went back to the yogurt city! We took the metro to the end of a line, walked a few blocks past this cool palace, took a ferry across the Bosphorus, and then a bus north for 20 min. People were SO helpful even though the language barrier is definitely a thing and normally, we pointed to the name of the city in our guidebook, and then they pointed us in some direction, possibly repeating the name of the city and nodding their heads. On the bus, at least 2 different people told us that the next stop was the one we wanted (in fewer words, of course). Great people. 


The yogurt was fantastic, just like before. I had two. Later, I did not feel very good, but I don't regret it because that was my last opportunity for amazing yogurt! Ali thinks it might be the best yogurt she's ever had, partially due to the honey on top, which is what looks yellow.


Outside the cafe!


A friend.


Local architecture. It was very pleasant to be in a calm, residential neighborhood. Very different than where we've spent most of our time on this trip.


A view of a mosque in the neighborhood where we caught the ferry on the Asian side, with the Bosphorus behind it.


A different mosque that we went in. Slightly less touristy than the Blue Mosque but still beautiful.


Probably my favorite thing I've seen in this city.


Dinner from another cafeteria place. The first one is mine. Of course I ate more yogurt because 400g earlier wasn't enough!


Ali got a giant meatball with a giant mashed potato scoop. Also delicious. I will miss this food. Staying here for so long has meant we had to eat in a lot of restaurants, which is expensive, but it also meant we got to eat in a lot of restaurants, which was wonderful.



Also, when we were standing on a crowded bus heading back toward the ferry, we were surrounded by some older women who were chatting and talking on a cell phone by passing it back and forth, and then then started eating candy, and then one offered some to Ali, who held out her hand, but she gave her the whole box, so then we ate some yogurt-covered nuts, and then Ali asked me, "So what did you learn when you were five years old?" 

Hint: it has to do with candy and strangers...  But people are just the best here. Since the bus was quite crowded, sometimes people had to get on at the middle doors instead of the front, and they would just pass up their bus card and someone would tap it and then it would get passed back. GREAT culture. That would never happen at home! We think the people here are nicer than anywhere we've ever been, and while we're pretty satisfied with the Istanbul experience overall (aka we've seen most of it) and don't need to come back soon, I'd recommend it purely because the people (especially when you get away from the salespeople) are incredible. 

It's currently 11:15pm, and we're leaving in about 4 hours to go to the airport, and flying out at 6am to be back in the US at noon if all goes well!! 

384729852 calories later...

I feel like quite the American because today was more or less about shopping, food and sports. We went back to the Grand Bazaar to do some gift shopping, and actually have a photo of us together (possibly the first one?) to prove we actually traveled together. 



Then we had a great lunch at a cafeteria ish place where you tell the cook which dishes you want out of a display, which is very difficult because everything looks phenomenal! 



We then braved the cold and went down to the waterfront and tossed the frisbee for a while, which was my first time in months! We also saw some cats.


We walk past the Aya Sofia frequently which is amazing.


Dinner was these crepe-things (spinach and feta, respectively) made by the woman sitting in the window. Obviously a tourist ploy, but a very successful one because there were a lot of us in the restaurant!



I would be a dessert person if I lived in this country. It's unbelievable. We have bought baklava more times than I can count...


Later... Still inredible!


Friday, December 21, 2012

so many stupid salesmen

Since we were fortunate enough not to have the world end, today we explored the Taksim neighborhood and main street, which felt a lot like any other major European street--lots of retail, Christmas decorations, many people, etc. 


although it did have some slightly less typical sites like this church (not a mosque--very rare)


and lots of Turkish fast food, which is cheap and super unhealthy of course, but it's not American fast food so we are willing to eat it!


Then we briefly visited a fish market, where one seller told Ali, "Hi, Lady Gaga!" Also someone else earlier today asked her if she was from Japan... The market was impressive though, because all these people (including the fisherman especially) spend all day, every day, outside working. The culture seems like an extremely hard-working one; most restaurants have a person standing outside to talk to passers-by and invite them in and they're outside in the literally freezing weather.

While I have lots of respect for that, I HATE it because I don't want to be rude but I don't want to go in your restaurant, I don't want to tell you where I'm from, and I don't want you to flirt with me! I very much look forward to coming home and blending in. I really do think that most of the people here wish us well and are genuinely excited to share their culture (and, let's be real, get some of our money) but it's so overwhelming. Not a fan.


 Anyway, we crossed a bridge and had some nice views.


This is an underpass under a major road and apparently is also a popular shopping destination. #clever.


We finally found the spice market! Really cool, and good for clearing my sinuses since I've actually been rather sick for the last few days... I'm sure I've blown my nose at least 100 times in the last 36 hours and gone through plenty of cough drops in the two preceding days...


These street vendors are everywhere and they sell roasted chestnuts, which were my favorite food in Spain! I bought some today and they were much easier to open than the ones in Spain, but not nearly as good. Guess I need to go back!


The best part of the day (for me, at least) was going up this tower because it afforded some beautiful views of the city, which still has lots of snow on the ground, although luckily not on the streets! I think this city would be absolutely gorgeous in the summer because I'm sure the Bosphorus (the straight of water) looks really blue; here, it's not as grey as the sea, which I could see from the other side (well, kind of, since it did blend in with the sky...)



Thursday, December 20, 2012

#istanbul #lastdayever #snowpocalypse #keptitcoze

You know how they say you shouldn't hate on something until you try it? Well, Ali and I spent several minutes hating on the following Instagram photo caption #congratulations to my #twin #sister #myotherhalf #engaged #finally #french #français and I decided I should probably try this myself. I would highly recommend reading the following captions aloud because it is far more entertaining. Note to readers over the age of 40: the pound sign is pronounced hashtag; i.e., "hashtag congratulations to my hashtag twin hashtag sister" etc. See how annoying it is??



it's #snowing in #Istanbul !  too bad all the #textiles in the #ArastaBazaar are too #expensive!



#giant #underground #Basilica #cistern from the #6thcentury. #civil #engineering #FTW !


#Medusa and her #head that's #upsidedown in the #cistern. #why??


#stillsnowing at the #AyaSofia. wish the sky was as #blue as this #fountain


#palmtrees with #snow in front of the #BlueMosque ! #allbundledup





inside the #BlueMosque. #gorge #stainedglass #windows and #domes.


Also, we went to a Turkish bath

In the interest of keeping the author interested in blogging, today's first post has been written by a guest author Ali in summary form, with occasional editorial comments for clarity by yours truly. 


Yesterday, we met a dog,



admired houses in [the neighborhood] Baby,



posed in Asia,


ate 1000 year old yogurt,


learned how to deal with Kurdish acosters,


lost 3000 feet in elevation while wandering through a market,


overfilled our stomachs with Mom's homemade, traditional, Turkish food,



played celebrity to some thunder monkeys,


danced the Hora [a traditional Jewish dance] in Fener, [OK, we didn't really do that, but they did know how to design streets]


listened to a subversive lecture.


admired the flags and the Golden Horn [inlet],


played Okey okay.


were swooned by Rumis,


forced [to eat] another meal,


and cried while saying goodbye to these guys [our crazy and ninja tour guides, respectively].